A heads up to all Prius owners: be extra careful not to lose your key. When I returned from a by-air trip, I discovered I'd lost my key. I called Toyota for a replacement and discovered it costs $191 plus tax and a charge for programming, which was quoted at $98!!! So, I'm not ordering it unless I and lose my remaining key. I'm writing to Toyota HQ to complain about the cost and the lack of notice of this cost. I understand it's due to the computer and anti-theft programming.
Prius key replacement
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24 Posts
isnt it a myth that you have to replace the entire ECU when you lose
all the keys? i thought toyota issued a service bulletin on how to
reprogram the ECU with new key entries making a physical replacement
not needed
http://priuschat.com/forums/showthread. ... ys+replace
all the keys? i thought toyota issued a service bulletin on how to
reprogram the ECU with new key entries making a physical replacement
not needed
http://priuschat.com/forums/showthread. ... ys+replace
Joined
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1 Posts
Well folks, this is NOT a myth, it works great
Finally! How to program a non-SKS key/fob. Detailed!
Ok folks THIS is really how you do this, and yes it really does work. I bought three old keys on ebay anywhere from $23.52 to $50 even. Make sure you have on your original key and have looked on the back for a black toyota logo. This WILL NOT work for the smart keys with the SILVER toyota logo. To get started go to ebay and find an auction for a black logo key. Bid and win and when it gets there, follow these instructions carefully.
The Fob (for operating the car)
This isn't hard, as long as your new fob is not broken and you are able to follow simple directions. The whole process will take less than two minutes.
1. Insert old fob into slot and remove it 4 times in a row, and insert it a fifth time but leave it in there!
2. Open and close driver door 6 times.
3. Remove old fob from slot. Car is in fob programming mode at this point.
4. Insert new fob and leave in the slot for a full minute. Watch the blinking red anti-theft light on the dashboard. When it stops flashing and goes dark, your new fob is all set.
5. Remove the new fob and you're done. You should test both fobs to be sure they work properly.
Now for the door lock functions.
The Fob (for remotely unlocking/locking the doors)
1. Open the driver door with no fob in slot and the driver door unlocked and opened. Other doors can be locked or unlocked, it doesn't matter.
2. Insert old fob into slot and remove it twice within 5 seconds.
3. Close and open driver door twice.
4. Insert and remove old fob once.
5. Close and open driver door twice again.
6. Insert old fob in slot and close door.
7. Without pressing the brake, press power button, wait a second, press it again, wait a second, press it a third time to turn car back off.
8. Remove old fob from slot. You'll be in "add mode" at this point.
9. Car should lock and unlock doors TWICE to verify it is in add mode.
10. Press both buttons on new fob simultaneously for a second and a half!.
11 Within 3 seconds, press only the lock symbol button. yes it does matter which!
12. Car should respond with one quick lock/unlock to verify that the new fob is all set. If the car responds with two lock/unlocks, that means it didn't work. I don't know how to troubleshoot that problem. Maybe just try again.
13. To end this programming, open a door or put fob in the slot.
14. Enjoy the savings from NOT buying a fob from the dealership!!!!!
15. If you want metal keys, DO not buy them from ebay, they quoted me $7.92 CUT by them from dealer.
Finally! How to program a non-SKS key/fob. Detailed!
Ok folks THIS is really how you do this, and yes it really does work. I bought three old keys on ebay anywhere from $23.52 to $50 even. Make sure you have on your original key and have looked on the back for a black toyota logo. This WILL NOT work for the smart keys with the SILVER toyota logo. To get started go to ebay and find an auction for a black logo key. Bid and win and when it gets there, follow these instructions carefully.
The Fob (for operating the car)
This isn't hard, as long as your new fob is not broken and you are able to follow simple directions. The whole process will take less than two minutes.
1. Insert old fob into slot and remove it 4 times in a row, and insert it a fifth time but leave it in there!
2. Open and close driver door 6 times.
3. Remove old fob from slot. Car is in fob programming mode at this point.
4. Insert new fob and leave in the slot for a full minute. Watch the blinking red anti-theft light on the dashboard. When it stops flashing and goes dark, your new fob is all set.
5. Remove the new fob and you're done. You should test both fobs to be sure they work properly.
Now for the door lock functions.
The Fob (for remotely unlocking/locking the doors)
1. Open the driver door with no fob in slot and the driver door unlocked and opened. Other doors can be locked or unlocked, it doesn't matter.
2. Insert old fob into slot and remove it twice within 5 seconds.
3. Close and open driver door twice.
4. Insert and remove old fob once.
5. Close and open driver door twice again.
6. Insert old fob in slot and close door.
7. Without pressing the brake, press power button, wait a second, press it again, wait a second, press it a third time to turn car back off.
8. Remove old fob from slot. You'll be in "add mode" at this point.
9. Car should lock and unlock doors TWICE to verify it is in add mode.
10. Press both buttons on new fob simultaneously for a second and a half!.
11 Within 3 seconds, press only the lock symbol button. yes it does matter which!
12. Car should respond with one quick lock/unlock to verify that the new fob is all set. If the car responds with two lock/unlocks, that means it didn't work. I don't know how to troubleshoot that problem. Maybe just try again.
13. To end this programming, open a door or put fob in the slot.
14. Enjoy the savings from NOT buying a fob from the dealership!!!!!
15. If you want metal keys, DO not buy them from ebay, they quoted me $7.92 CUT by them from dealer.
Joined
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24 Posts
its a myth
if you lose ALL YOUR KEYS, tow the vehicle to your local toyota dealer, or a friend with the scan tool (preferred, heh)
you will need your license and a copy of the registration (so they say, heh) and they obtain the six digit password
from the vin number, enter it into the scantool, and the scantool erases all the master keys, and allows the
dealer to enter in new keys.
make sure they connect the 12v battery to a charger/tender during the reflashing sequence.
if you lose ALL YOUR KEYS, tow the vehicle to your local toyota dealer, or a friend with the scan tool (preferred, heh)
you will need your license and a copy of the registration (so they say, heh) and they obtain the six digit password
from the vin number, enter it into the scantool, and the scantool erases all the master keys, and allows the
dealer to enter in new keys.
make sure they connect the 12v battery to a charger/tender during the reflashing sequence.
Can I reprogram TWO fobs that start the car, but won't lock or unlock it? They stopped working, I replaced the fob batteries, then took it to my mechanic, who replaced the 12V battery, and now they are telling me I have to take it to the dealer to get the fobs programmed. Would really rather not.
Joined
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1 Posts
I just did the following and it worked perfectly! Both the starting the car part, and the door lock/unlock and panic buttongs! Great instructions from the above person. THANK YOU!
===============================
Well folks, this is NOT a myth, it works great
Finally! How to program a non-SKS key/fob. Detailed!
Ok folks THIS is really how you do this, and yes it really does work. I bought three old keys on ebay anywhere from $23.52 to $50 even. Make sure you have on your original key and have looked on the back for a black toyota logo. This WILL NOT work for the smart keys with the SILVER toyota logo. To get started go to ebay and find an auction for a black logo key. Bid and win and when it gets there, follow these instructions carefully.
The Fob (for operating the car)
This isn't hard, as long as your new fob is not broken and you are able to follow simple directions. The whole process will take less than two minutes.
1. Insert old fob into slot and remove it 4 times in a row, and insert it a fifth time but leave it in there!
2. Open and close driver door 6 times.
3. Remove old fob from slot. Car is in fob programming mode at this point.
4. Insert new fob and leave in the slot for a full minute. Watch the blinking red anti-theft light on the dashboard. When it stops flashing and goes dark, your new fob is all set.
5. Remove the new fob and you're done. You should test both fobs to be sure they work properly.
Now for the door lock functions.
The Fob (for remotely unlocking/locking the doors)
1. Open the driver door with no fob in slot and the driver door unlocked and opened. Other doors can be locked or unlocked, it doesn't matter.
2. Insert old fob into slot and remove it twice within 5 seconds.
3. Close and open driver door twice.
4. Insert and remove old fob once.
5. Close and open driver door twice again.
6. Insert old fob in slot and close door.
7. Without pressing the brake, press power button, wait a second, press it again, wait a second, press it a third time to turn car back off.
8. Remove old fob from slot. You'll be in "add mode" at this point.
9. Car should lock and unlock doors TWICE to verify it is in add mode.
10. Press both buttons on new fob simultaneously for a second and a half!.
11 Within 3 seconds, press only the lock symbol button. yes it does matter which!
12. Car should respond with one quick lock/unlock to verify that the new fob is all set. If the car responds with two lock/unlocks, that means it didn't work. I don't know how to troubleshoot that problem. Maybe just try again.
13. To end this programming, open a door or put fob in the slot.
14. Enjoy the savings from NOT buying a fob from the dealership!!!!!
15. If you want metal keys, DO not buy them from ebay, they quoted me $7.92 CUT by them from dealer.
===============================
Well folks, this is NOT a myth, it works great
Finally! How to program a non-SKS key/fob. Detailed!
Ok folks THIS is really how you do this, and yes it really does work. I bought three old keys on ebay anywhere from $23.52 to $50 even. Make sure you have on your original key and have looked on the back for a black toyota logo. This WILL NOT work for the smart keys with the SILVER toyota logo. To get started go to ebay and find an auction for a black logo key. Bid and win and when it gets there, follow these instructions carefully.
The Fob (for operating the car)
This isn't hard, as long as your new fob is not broken and you are able to follow simple directions. The whole process will take less than two minutes.
1. Insert old fob into slot and remove it 4 times in a row, and insert it a fifth time but leave it in there!
2. Open and close driver door 6 times.
3. Remove old fob from slot. Car is in fob programming mode at this point.
4. Insert new fob and leave in the slot for a full minute. Watch the blinking red anti-theft light on the dashboard. When it stops flashing and goes dark, your new fob is all set.
5. Remove the new fob and you're done. You should test both fobs to be sure they work properly.
Now for the door lock functions.
The Fob (for remotely unlocking/locking the doors)
1. Open the driver door with no fob in slot and the driver door unlocked and opened. Other doors can be locked or unlocked, it doesn't matter.
2. Insert old fob into slot and remove it twice within 5 seconds.
3. Close and open driver door twice.
4. Insert and remove old fob once.
5. Close and open driver door twice again.
6. Insert old fob in slot and close door.
7. Without pressing the brake, press power button, wait a second, press it again, wait a second, press it a third time to turn car back off.
8. Remove old fob from slot. You'll be in "add mode" at this point.
9. Car should lock and unlock doors TWICE to verify it is in add mode.
10. Press both buttons on new fob simultaneously for a second and a half!.
11 Within 3 seconds, press only the lock symbol button. yes it does matter which!
12. Car should respond with one quick lock/unlock to verify that the new fob is all set. If the car responds with two lock/unlocks, that means it didn't work. I don't know how to troubleshoot that problem. Maybe just try again.
13. To end this programming, open a door or put fob in the slot.
14. Enjoy the savings from NOT buying a fob from the dealership!!!!!
15. If you want metal keys, DO not buy them from ebay, they quoted me $7.92 CUT by them from dealer.
Joined
·
11 Posts
Newbie Prius owner here. 2006 w/ trim package that includes a backup camera, which I need to go look up somewhere to find out what I got.
But the issue: somebody used this term: SE&SS/SKS. SKS I get, Smart Key System. But the other two, could somebody please define them?
Thanks.
Don.
But the issue: somebody used this term: SE&SS/SKS. SKS I get, Smart Key System. But the other two, could somebody please define them?
Thanks.
Don.
Hi, Don (WestofLongBeach),
In the early days of the 2nd generation Prius (I think only in 2004 & 2005 in the sales brochures) they referred to the Smart Key System (SKS) as Smart Entry (SE) & Smart Start (SS). I think starting in 2006 (through now) they just simplified it to the SKS which you recognize.
As far as looking up the option pkg level (number or 2-letter code) that you have, you can just go to a Toyota dealer & have them run a "build sheet" for your VIN number (they should be able to still do it even for a 4 year old car). That will tell you which plant your car was built in, which ship it came over on, which port it entered, which option pkg it was equipped with at the factory (but not likely any port-installed accessories/options that were put in when it hit the U.S. shores), your key code [for re-cutting a new (hidden-in-the-fob) metal key], as well as a number of other interesting things about your car. It's a nice thing to have & put away for safe keeping for future reference.
If you're not interested in having that, or your dealer is too far away (even though he could mail it to you), or he says he can't do it for you, there is an alternative way that you can figure your option pkg level for yourself (if you don't have a 2006 sales brochure available). Just click on this link I'm going to give you.
http://priuschat.com/forums/knowledge-b ... tries.html
Scroll SLOWLY down & after the color codes you will see a "USA" heading followed by each of the model years & their 2-letter option codes. On this list, starting in 2007 the letter codes were number-identified too because of the confusion by the addition of the touring model (model 1226---the base, option-less model was a 1220 & the standard model with the options was a model 1224). In your 2006 (& earlier) model years, the option pkg letter codes should be listed in numerical order, so if you have a code HG, it will be a Pkg #4 or if your code is NW, it will be a Pkg #8. [I did catch an error in my 2005 model year where my AM (Pkg #4) should be in 4th place followed by AI for #5 which means BI moves to the #3 position (ascending Price should also be an indicator of the ascending option pkg number)---the pkg code letters & their corresponding numerical positions for 2005 will then be correct.] The reason I said scroll SLOWLY at the start of this paragraph is because the USA models are listed 1st. If you go too fast, you'll go past the 2009 USA model & get into Canada, or United Kingdom, or Australia (& other countries) models which can be described & equipped way differently from our cars. I hope I have been of some help to you.
In the early days of the 2nd generation Prius (I think only in 2004 & 2005 in the sales brochures) they referred to the Smart Key System (SKS) as Smart Entry (SE) & Smart Start (SS). I think starting in 2006 (through now) they just simplified it to the SKS which you recognize.
As far as looking up the option pkg level (number or 2-letter code) that you have, you can just go to a Toyota dealer & have them run a "build sheet" for your VIN number (they should be able to still do it even for a 4 year old car). That will tell you which plant your car was built in, which ship it came over on, which port it entered, which option pkg it was equipped with at the factory (but not likely any port-installed accessories/options that were put in when it hit the U.S. shores), your key code [for re-cutting a new (hidden-in-the-fob) metal key], as well as a number of other interesting things about your car. It's a nice thing to have & put away for safe keeping for future reference.
If you're not interested in having that, or your dealer is too far away (even though he could mail it to you), or he says he can't do it for you, there is an alternative way that you can figure your option pkg level for yourself (if you don't have a 2006 sales brochure available). Just click on this link I'm going to give you.
http://priuschat.com/forums/knowledge-b ... tries.html
Scroll SLOWLY down & after the color codes you will see a "USA" heading followed by each of the model years & their 2-letter option codes. On this list, starting in 2007 the letter codes were number-identified too because of the confusion by the addition of the touring model (model 1226---the base, option-less model was a 1220 & the standard model with the options was a model 1224). In your 2006 (& earlier) model years, the option pkg letter codes should be listed in numerical order, so if you have a code HG, it will be a Pkg #4 or if your code is NW, it will be a Pkg #8. [I did catch an error in my 2005 model year where my AM (Pkg #4) should be in 4th place followed by AI for #5 which means BI moves to the #3 position (ascending Price should also be an indicator of the ascending option pkg number)---the pkg code letters & their corresponding numerical positions for 2005 will then be correct.] The reason I said scroll SLOWLY at the start of this paragraph is because the USA models are listed 1st. If you go too fast, you'll go past the 2009 USA model & get into Canada, or United Kingdom, or Australia (& other countries) models which can be described & equipped way differently from our cars. I hope I have been of some help to you.
Joined
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11 Posts
Ct. Ken V,
You certainly HAVE been of help. Thanks very much.
From the web page you cited me to, it looks like we have either HF (likely, 'cause the only difference between HF and the one above it is VSC, and I think that would show somehow in the cockpit) or HG.
Good to know. And I will save the web page, of course.
Thanks again.
Don.
You certainly HAVE been of help. Thanks very much.
From the web page you cited me to, it looks like we have either HF (likely, 'cause the only difference between HF and the one above it is VSC, and I think that would show somehow in the cockpit) or HG.
Good to know. And I will save the web page, of course.
Thanks again.
Don.
Hi again, Don,
Even though the speedometer/odometer/gas gage & warning light displays are set up differently between my 2005 & your 2006 model, you should be able to look in the line of warning lights [once you have pressed the power button twice WITHOUT your foot on the brake (which will only put the car into "ignition on" mode---NOT "ready' to drive). The row of yellow lights starting with the "check engine" symbol should be lit & if you DO have an HG with VSC, then that light should be lit too. If you only have the HF pkg, I can't see the VSC light being lit (in "ignition on" mode) if there is no VSC module/system installed to check/test before start-up.
Even though the speedometer/odometer/gas gage & warning light displays are set up differently between my 2005 & your 2006 model, you should be able to look in the line of warning lights [once you have pressed the power button twice WITHOUT your foot on the brake (which will only put the car into "ignition on" mode---NOT "ready' to drive). The row of yellow lights starting with the "check engine" symbol should be lit & if you DO have an HG with VSC, then that light should be lit too. If you only have the HF pkg, I can't see the VSC light being lit (in "ignition on" mode) if there is no VSC module/system installed to check/test before start-up.
Joined
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11 Posts
Ken,
Ahah! Got it, we have an HF, as no VSC light comes up when I follow your procedure. Unless the little icon with a skidding car is it? Making it an HG?
BTW, I tried connecting my Garmin to the power supply under the dash just to the right of the center console, and it appears not to be powered. Any notion what's going on?
Thanks again, Ken.
Ahah! Got it, we have an HF, as no VSC light comes up when I follow your procedure. Unless the little icon with a skidding car is it? Making it an HG?
BTW, I tried connecting my Garmin to the power supply under the dash just to the right of the center console, and it appears not to be powered. Any notion what's going on?
Thanks again, Ken.
Hi again, Don,
I tried to answer you Sat. morning, but my computer was having issues, so I had to shut it down live (improperly) & I lost everything I had typed. I wasn't around at all yesterday, so here I go trying again today.
No, the little "skidding car" symbol has nothing to do with Vehicle Stability Control (VSC). It's a "wheel slip indicator" as noted in section 2-6 (Operation of Instruments and Controls), Pg 140 & 141 of my 2005 owners manual. It will flash & emit an audible beep when a wheel spins on wet, icy, or sandy pavement as the traction control engages cutting power output from the transmission, forcing the wheel(s) to turn slower (to keep traction) until your road speed matches the power requested from your foot position on the "go pedal". ALL Priuses have traction control standard, NOT to improve traction (like the old GM "Posi-traction"), but to protect the electric motor(s) from over-spinning & causing damage to your car's drive system.
The dash display changed between my 2005 & your 2006, so I don't know if the positions of all the indicator lights remained the same or not. In mine, the row of indicator warning lights starts with #1 Check Engine, #2 Brake System warning, #3 ABS, #4 VSC, & #5 is the Wheel Slip warning, so if yours is set up the same & you don't see the VSC light come on between the ABS & the "skidding car" symbol, then you DON'T have VSC. VSC is an option only available in certain higher end option pkg models & Consumer Reports has touted it (sometimes also called ESC in other makes) as the best safety device to come along since ABS brakes & airbags. I think it's going to become mandatory in all cars starting with either the 2011 or 2012 model year. It works along with your ABS brakes & compares the angle your steering wheels are turned to with the angle a body sensor reports that the car is following, & if they are not the same it assumes you are starting to spin out of control & will apply the ABS brakes of the appropriate 1, 2, or 3 wheels to swing the body angle back in line with the steering wheel angle to save your butt. I think the VSC light will also flash & give an audible beep if it has to go to work to save my butt.
As far as your power port under the dash, I would guess either a blown fuse or a disconnected wire. The power port inside the center console/armrest is on a different circuit from the under-dash one. I don't think the fuse for either one is in the fuse/relay box under the hood behind the driver's side headlight. The fuses for those circuits will be in the fuse box under the dash, just above the parking brake foot pedal where the dash has about a 4" long cutout. The label on the lid of it is hard to read while in place & the lid is a little difficult to remove for the 1st few times (it goes back on hard too). To remove the lid, just put a finger on the single tab between the edge of the lid & the cutout opening & pull gently down until it gives. If the circuits are the same between our two years, then you probably have a blown #29 fuse (the function identification is below the numbered fuse position on the grid of the lid label---I think the #23 position is the "pwr outlet" inside the center console).
I tried to answer you Sat. morning, but my computer was having issues, so I had to shut it down live (improperly) & I lost everything I had typed. I wasn't around at all yesterday, so here I go trying again today.
No, the little "skidding car" symbol has nothing to do with Vehicle Stability Control (VSC). It's a "wheel slip indicator" as noted in section 2-6 (Operation of Instruments and Controls), Pg 140 & 141 of my 2005 owners manual. It will flash & emit an audible beep when a wheel spins on wet, icy, or sandy pavement as the traction control engages cutting power output from the transmission, forcing the wheel(s) to turn slower (to keep traction) until your road speed matches the power requested from your foot position on the "go pedal". ALL Priuses have traction control standard, NOT to improve traction (like the old GM "Posi-traction"), but to protect the electric motor(s) from over-spinning & causing damage to your car's drive system.
The dash display changed between my 2005 & your 2006, so I don't know if the positions of all the indicator lights remained the same or not. In mine, the row of indicator warning lights starts with #1 Check Engine, #2 Brake System warning, #3 ABS, #4 VSC, & #5 is the Wheel Slip warning, so if yours is set up the same & you don't see the VSC light come on between the ABS & the "skidding car" symbol, then you DON'T have VSC. VSC is an option only available in certain higher end option pkg models & Consumer Reports has touted it (sometimes also called ESC in other makes) as the best safety device to come along since ABS brakes & airbags. I think it's going to become mandatory in all cars starting with either the 2011 or 2012 model year. It works along with your ABS brakes & compares the angle your steering wheels are turned to with the angle a body sensor reports that the car is following, & if they are not the same it assumes you are starting to spin out of control & will apply the ABS brakes of the appropriate 1, 2, or 3 wheels to swing the body angle back in line with the steering wheel angle to save your butt. I think the VSC light will also flash & give an audible beep if it has to go to work to save my butt.
As far as your power port under the dash, I would guess either a blown fuse or a disconnected wire. The power port inside the center console/armrest is on a different circuit from the under-dash one. I don't think the fuse for either one is in the fuse/relay box under the hood behind the driver's side headlight. The fuses for those circuits will be in the fuse box under the dash, just above the parking brake foot pedal where the dash has about a 4" long cutout. The label on the lid of it is hard to read while in place & the lid is a little difficult to remove for the 1st few times (it goes back on hard too). To remove the lid, just put a finger on the single tab between the edge of the lid & the cutout opening & pull gently down until it gives. If the circuits are the same between our two years, then you probably have a blown #29 fuse (the function identification is below the numbered fuse position on the grid of the lid label---I think the #23 position is the "pwr outlet" inside the center console).
Joined
·
11 Posts
Thanks, Ken V. Lotsa information for me to check on the weekend. I hope you didn't lose too much in your unfortunate shutdown.
As you may know, Los Angeles, a few miles north of here, was having a record beaking temperature of 113 today. In Long Beach we were at 103. Really hard to take.
Don.
As you may know, Los Angeles, a few miles north of here, was having a record beaking temperature of 113 today. In Long Beach we were at 103. Really hard to take.
Don.
Hi! I finally did it, I lost one of my keyfobs.
Well, I had bought a spare a long time ago,
and even programmed the doors, but google said that
civilians can't program the ECU for new keys.
The thread quoted below seems to say you can.
Are there any risks? Has anyone been burned?
Should I try this procedure while parked in front
of the dealership?
(Also, can I lock out the lost one?
Thanks
Seth
Well, I had bought a spare a long time ago,
and even programmed the doors, but google said that
civilians can't program the ECU for new keys.
The thread quoted below seems to say you can.
Are there any risks? Has anyone been burned?
Should I try this procedure while parked in front
of the dealership?
(Also, can I lock out the lost one?
Thanks
Seth
Prius2006Owner said:
Joined
·
1 Posts
So does the above method work for an 05? Do I need a silver emblem or black key?
Thanks
Thanks
pachai>> Does anyone know if there is any risk?
I don't know if there is any risk,
but I parked in a legal parking spot that
was good till morning, and did the procedure.
It takes a bit more than 2 minutes, but it does
work just as expected.
Like a good systems guy, after changing a Production
System, I tested the old keys just in case.
NOW it is time to buy a couple more keys.
(Even though I found the missing one...
I don't know if there is any risk,
but I parked in a legal parking spot that
was good till morning, and did the procedure.
It takes a bit more than 2 minutes, but it does
work just as expected.
Like a good systems guy, after changing a Production
System, I tested the old keys just in case.
NOW it is time to buy a couple more keys.
(Even though I found the missing one...
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