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A heads up to all Prius owners: be extra careful not to lose your key. When I returned from a by-air trip, I discovered I'd lost my key. I called Toyota for a replacement and discovered it costs $191 plus tax and a charge for programming, which was quoted at $98!!! So, I'm not ordering it unless I and lose my remaining key. I'm writing to Toyota HQ to complain about the cost and the lack of notice of this cost. I understand it's due to the computer and anti-theft programming.
 

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Goodness! Don't wait until you lose the second one. If you lose both, I hear it's a nightmare, AND way more expensive. They have to reprogram the CAR, not just the keys.
:shock:
 

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When we replaced our key, I tried programming it myself, but was unsuccessful. Had to go back and pay them the $50. :(
 

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When I got my Prius, the Toyota dealer gave me a code number and told me to keep it in case a new smart key has to be made.
 

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Absolutely do not wait another week even...you must replace the entire SKS ECU if lose both smart keys..one is required to reprogram the ECU. This is definately not a cost your warranty would cover. Some people have gone so far as to get a 3rd key just for the added security should both be lost.
 

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The metal keytag that comes with your keys at purchase is the key cut code for the metal key. If you loose the last metal key, a new key can be cut from the keycode on the metal tag without the need to copy a physical key. HOWEVER, this tag code has nothing to do with the engine immobilizer security code! The metal code on the keytag will only get you a key to open the door, but not start your car.

The Prius has an engine immobilizer, so it must recognize a transponder chip in the key as one it knows about before it'll let you start your car. To program a new key into the car's security ECU (one of the computers), you first need a recognized master transponder chipped key. (For a Classic Prius, this is usually a black master key (NOT the grey valet/subkey). For the 2004+ Prius, any keyfob is a master if it starts your car.) DO NOT LOOSE YOUR LAST MASTER KEY! The security ECU cannot start the registration process for a new key without an already existing recognized key. If you loose all keys, you'll have to replace the security ECU with a fresh one, about US$1000. (a few years ago I weighed my Classic Prius' black master key, and figured using the spot price of gold for that day what the black key would be worth if it was made of gold. The replacement cost of the ECU is more than the price of that key made of pure gold, so that last key is literally worth its weight in gold!)

For a Classic Prius, you can purchase the keys online (like eBay), or here for $18+shipping: http://www.coastaletech.com/carkeys.htm You can have the metal key cut at any locksmith/hardware store.
You can program a Classic Prius yourself, although it may take a few tries to get the timing right: http://www.coastaletech.com/keys.htm
You can have 4 master keys and 2 sub keys.
(A master key is one that can start the reprogramming process of a new key. A sub key is allowed to start the car (disable the engine immobilizer), but it cannot make a new key. The grey key that comes with delivery is usually a sub key, and also has a different metal keycut to make it a valet key (cannot open the trunk).)

For a 2004+ Prius, note that there are two types of keyfobs available, a silver Toyota logo for a Prius with SE&SS/SKS, and a black Toyota logo one for a regular non-SE&SS/SKS equipped Prius. I'll note that on page 18 of my 2004 owner's manual it plainly states:
"Your Toyota dealer will need
one of them to make a new key with
a built.in transponder chip."
Shop around for pricing for the correct keyfob, discounts can be found at different dealers.
Although there are programming instructions around for doing it yourself, the instructions came from a German manual and may only work in that country (hasn't worked on a US Prius yet...) You will have to go to your dealer and have them program it for you using their special tester that talks with the computer. Be aware that you'll probably need to take all existing keys in to have them all recorded with the car's computer. Again, shop around for a dealer that has a lower per-hour labor charge, and one that has done this before (so it doesn't take forever while they learn the timing with your vehicle), as they have to program not only the car to recognize the keyfob, but also program the remote entry buttons (and also the SE&SS/SKS if so equipped).
Again, you can have the metal key cut at any locksmith/hardware store, for probably less than the dealer...
 

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taken from:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Pri ... &query=key

Part Number \/ Description Price Location Contact Notes (dependencies,
conflicts, other) Edit Delete
69515-47010 2004 Driver's door key $3.97 Conicelli Toyota - PA Tom
Rielli - 800-825-7128 ext.2653 Mention you are a Prius Club Member
for this discounted price Edit Delete
89071-47180 2004 keyfob WITHOUT Smart Start & Entry $144.17
Conicelli Toyota - PA Tom Rielli - 800-825-7128 ext.2653 Mention you
are a Prius Club Member for this discounted price. List $192.33 Edit
Delete
89904-47061 2004 keyfob WITH Smart Start & Entry $160.50 Conicelli
Toyota - PA Tom Rielli - 800-825-7128 ext.2653 Mention you are a
Prius Club Member for this discounted price. List $214.00 Edit Delete

note that that is just the parts pricing. (yes, the metal key in the 2004+ keyfob is a separate part from the rest of the keyfob...) You still will have to pay a dealer for the programming labor.
 

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Got a question for you.

I bought a fob. I paid for the programming.

I gave them the new fob and one of my original fobs.

They said they programed it.

The new fob will turn the car on and I can drive.

The new fob will NOT lock or unlock the doors. I have to unlock the door with the little key.

Is this right? All that money and the buttons don't work? I thought I read that I can have up to five master keys. I assumed that if I bought a third fob and I paid to have it programmed that it would work exactly like the first two and I would be able to use the buttons to lock and unlock the car. It seems stupid that a third driver would have to use his key to manually unlock the door.

Did my dealership's service department rip me off or are they just inept?
 

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Godiva said:
. . . Did my dealership's service department rip me off or are they just inept?
Just take it back and explain to them that the remote door lock feature doesn't work. They should make it better. It could be a problem with the transmitter or battery in the fob or it could be they made a mistake programming it. In either case, they'll almost certainly make it better. Well, if you bought the key somewhere else, you might end up having to return it for exchange yourself if they say the transmitter is defective.

It sounds like they forgot to test their programming, but I suppose it's possible the fob got dropped afterward or had an almost dead battery as delivered. Welcome to the brave new world where the customer is the beta tester.

When you return, bring all your keys/fobs. There's a tiny chance they'll decide they want to erase everything and start over.
 

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First off, is this SKS or not? By saying the fob turns on and off the car (immobilizer), are you doing this strictly through the slot, or through SKS?

There is actually 2 programmings that need be done. One for the immobilizer, the other for the remote door locks/SKS.
 

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That's it!

It's not the SmartKey system. Just plain old #1.

And the fob works fine. There is a blinking light when I use the lock/unlock buttons. Just....nothing happens. The other two original fobs work fine.

That explains it Dan. Aha! Inept it is.

They only did the ignition. They didn't do the doors. And now I know exactly what to tell them.

This is my THIRD trip to them this week. On Monday I couldn't even get anyone to come help me in service. After standing around for 5 min. hearing "someone will be right with you" as salesmen walked by I left.

I then called customer service.

Who on Wed. met me profusely and they were tripping all over me to get my car in to service.

And when I got home....I couldn't lock the car. Or unlock it. The fob only started the car.

So today it's a third trip to them. But at least now I know what they didn't do. They have 6 hours to read up on it.

Thanks! I love being an informed owner.
 

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Wow, how ridiculous.

Test the key before you even leave the dealer and give them hell if it still won't work. Mention something about contacting the regional HQ or something and they'll probably freak out a bit.

I'm not used to being ignored at the dealer anymore since everyone there knows I'm married to one of the techs and that we just bought a Prius. Usually hubby just takes my car in himself and does any changes I want...

Guess I'm lucky.
 

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They should go to page 05-2266. Apparently for non-SKS fobs, one could do the registration themselves. Pretty complex.

1. driver door open, no key in slot, door unlocked.
2. put valid key in and out of slot twice within 5 seconds.
3. close and open driver door twice.
4. insert and remove key in slot.
5. close and open driver door twice.
6 insert master key in slot and close door.
7. press power on then press power off in one second interval. This is add mode
8. remove key from slot
9. car should lock and unlock door once for add mode.
10. press both buttons on transmitter.
11 within 3 seconds, press one button.
12. car should respond with one lock-unlock. two means it didn't work.
13. open a door or put key in slot.
End.
 

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All's well that ends.

Well, finally. A third trip and five minutes later and the fob does everything. I've now handed it off to my parents with a spare garage door opener. (My mother is a little anal.)

And the good news: the customer relationship lady at the dealership gave me two coupons for free oil changes. That's a year's worth.

Maybe I'll let them change the oil and maybe I won't. But I want to talk to the service guy who is changing my oil personally about the 3.9 NOT 4 quarts and using the Mobil 1 5w30 and magnetic plug I bought. If they say no, I won't be that disappointed.
 

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Lost and Found

As part of my job, I am incharge of Lost and Found, you would be surprised how many items are turned in and go unclaimed. Unfortunately, I can't return a lot of these items because I don't know who the owners are. I think FOB's are worth putting a small sticker on with your first name and cell # on them. You never know if you are going to loose them and whoever finds it just might give you a call. You definatley don't want your full name, address or home number on it for security reasons.
 

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Programming the FOB for igition and doorlocks

With a background in electronics, computers, and auto repair, I just had to get a true Toyota Scan Tool with "Factory" software. Cost me about as much as a good used car! Did I mention I also have a NGS Star Scan Tool for my Ford F-150 which does a great job.

My personal opinion is this. For Ford products, you will get a lot of use out of their factory scanner. Most non-dealer shops agree that they see more Ford 'engine lights' than any other make. My F-150 engine light stays on all the time because I refuse to clean the lines to and from the EGR frequently-not a fun job. The plugged lines has no effect on anything that I can tell. Therefore, I just read the computer often to make sure no new codes come in and hardly ever get any new codes except a misfire during seasonal changes-no big deal-just clear the code and go on.

MY person opinion on Prius. The technical services manuals are not well written and difficult at best to understand. This is also true with the scan tool and related manuals. For the most part, you must figure out everything yourself. Good useful Toyota information is available online for an expensive price. Tech Support. ( Dealers have it, of course! ) Therefore I don't recommend anyone getting a scan tool at all for the Prius. My 2005 has 14 computers and the scan tool can access all 14 but little or no useful related technical material is not good. I recently purchased a SmartKey and programmed it for my Prius. The key works the ignition but will not program the doorlocks. I can start and drive the car but cant lock or unlock it! Go figure. I have plently of time to play, so I will figure it out one day.

One last note. Not all scanners are alike. There are Toyota Brand Scanners with firmware thay blocks some programming functions. Wow.
The real test is try the scanner before buying it or get it from someone who knows Toyotas and scanners. I am not sure what I have, but I paid almost $4K so I believe I have all the features, but not sure since I can't program the doorlocks.
 

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RE: The new fob will NOT lock or unlock the doors

Have your dealer scan your prius for any/all errors codes.
You will find one code for the immobilizer.
DTC=1 B2795 unmatched key code.
The dealer has not programmed the FOB correctly.
 

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Dan.... You are the man! I've been searching the net for a long time to find this information. Thanks for sharing your knowldge.


They should go to page 05-2266. Apparently for non-SKS fobs, one could do the registration themselves. Pretty complex.

1. driver door open, no key in slot, door unlocked.
2. put valid key in and out of slot twice within 5 seconds.
3. close and open driver door twice.
4. insert and remove key in slot.
5. close and open driver door twice.
6 insert master key in slot and close door.
7. press power on then press power off in one second interval. This is add mode
8. remove key from slot
9. car should lock and unlock door once for add mode.
10. press both buttons on transmitter.
11 within 3 seconds, press one button.
12. car should respond with one lock-unlock. two means it didn't work.
13. open a door or put key in slot.
End.
 
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