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I may be overstepping regarding this 12 v battery in our Prius but just becauses it doesn't fit in the prearranged slot in the trunk - is no reason to pay such an outrageous price for their air vented battery.

It is a nicely sealed area for the battery but it erks me to see them screwing us on this setup.

I have owned other Toyotas and a group 24 battery was usually the norm.

I have looked in the 12v battery area and it seems to me that there is plenty of room for a bigger battery - but just because it is a Hybrid why can't I use another size battery?

Or are we all suppose to be so rich that it doesn't matter that we are getting screwed?

Anyway, I have a 2008 Prius that I paid $35,000 for because of the grap when gas went up to $4 a gal. It was a real rip off but at the time I decided to buy a Prius with all the bells and whistles.

A battery that last only 4 years is a definite a goof up for this great car - and yet I hear only minor belly aching - With this scientific marvel and a crapy battery seems like a bridge to nowhere.

Whew, now that I got that off my chest - I can now consider whether I want to buy the Optima for $235.09 or try doing my own modifications for a group 24 for about $50 or so. Maybe even 2 or 3 motorcycle batteries in parallel. They are small and more adjustable.

Any suggestions or reasons not to use another type batteries would be welcomed.
 

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I have a 2004 and just put in my second 12V battery. It is important to make sure the battery you install is properly vented or you will risk an explosion (the hydrogen gas generated while the battery is charging). The 12V battery doesn't do a lot except keep the necessary computers running and run a few pumps while the car is powered off, but things go crazy if the voltage gets too low.

With all that said you should probably choose either the Toyota battery of the Optima. I've just had mine replaced by the dealer.

Good luck.
 

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Ditto - stick with the OEM battery or the Optima. However, it is your car so you can take whatever chances you want with it.
 

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Well, I probably shouldn't admit it here, but I have 2 Prius and I've been using the $20.00 Walmart lawn tractor batteries in them for 3 years with no problems and no smells. I don't think they charge enough to give off enough gas to bother anything. After all, they are kept charged by the HV battery and not an altenator. And the stock battery clamps even work by just putting the bolt thru the hole in the lawn tractor battery terminal. Like someone said, to each his own.....
 

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The 12v battery is charged by the DC/DC converter, not the traction battery.
Just terminology here I believe. 12 volt battery is charged from the traction battery. However it is reduced from 276 volts to 12 volts via the dc/dc converter. Max charge rate is 3 amps. This is on my 2001 however.

BTW- Wife left the door ajar over night one time and drained the battery so car would not start (instument lights nearly faded out). I left the car set for about 15 min to recoup a bit of charge hopefully, turned the key on, the instrument lights came on dimly at first, the relays in the trunk clicked on and the lights brightened up immediately and the car started up!
This tells me when the relays closed it sent current to the 12 volt battery even before the engine had a chance to start. Good to know.
 

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Don't know if you have replaced your 12v battery yet, but check this Web site. In the last few years, we purchased two batteries from them for our 2002 Prius. Also, just because the batteries are small, they don't last longer. Our "Miata" batteries only lasted about 3-4 years each due to the extreme heat in the desert southwest (Phoenix) area. You might have better luck with the Optima's, though; I think they are a better battery than the Miata-type battery that was the previous replacement for Gen I Prius's.

http://www.elearnaid.com/12vo1topraub.html

Note to Paul01: You can hook up a portable starter battery to a dead 12v battery to get the electronics started. It's just like jump starting a regular car; you just don't need near as much capacity, because you are only providing power to the hybrid computer electronics.
 

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Don't know if you have replaced your 12v battery yet, but check this Web site. In the last few years, we purchased two batteries from them for our 2002 Prius. Also, just because the batteries are small, they don't last longer. Our "Miata" batteries only lasted about 3-4 years each due to the extreme heat in the desert southwest (Phoenix) area. You might have better luck with the Optima's, though; I think they are a better battery than the Miata-type battery that was the previous replacement for Gen I Prius's.

http://www.elearnaid.com/12vo1topraub.html

Note to Paul01: You can hook up a portable starter battery to a dead 12v battery to get the electronics started. It's just like jump starting a regular car; you just don't need near as much capacity, because you are only providing power to the hybrid computer electronics.
Phoenix: Yes that was my next thing to do if I was unable to start it.
Thought it was interesting that I didn't have to drag out my battery charger this time. May not be so lucky next time.
After living with this car sinse new, I finally kinda know all its strange at times problems. Only repair has been cleaning the MAF sensor a number of times, and a replacement ECM ($98 on e-bay) and one 12 volt battery ($128 from dealer) in 100,100 miles. Thanks
 

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Paul01,

We have about 125,000 miles on our 2002 Prius, and have never replaced the MAF. In the early years, our Toyota dealer told us about apparent MAF sensor failures being caused by overfilled ICE crankcase oil. I always check our oil level before leaving the dealership (don't use the quick lube places), and have had to ask them to drain a half-quart a couple of times -- and this is the dealer.

As I mentioned in another recent post, the extra oil can get sucked up into the intake manifold and cause a "failed to start" error (code 3191), which is usually fixed by replacing the MAF, whether or not is actually defective. One Toyota tech told me about this; said most places use auto-fill systems and dial-up "4" (quarts) when filling. The Prius capacity is 3.7, and that extra little bit is enough to give you a 3191 code.

Since our free oil changes stopped at 75,000 miles, I have changed the oil myself; so this is no longer a concern. I just put in 3.5 quarts and put the leftover half bottle in the trunk for the next oil change.
 

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I have a prius 1g which needs a new starter battery. Would be curious to know more about this walmart lawnmower battery that was mentioned. Also if anybody has found a source for any other possible substitutes for the 12v agm, as I don't want to give Toyota a single penny for their rip-off parts.
 

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Best Replacement 12v Battery: Duracell Procell SLI51

Final Cost:
$98

Available at:
Batteries Plus
This is the battery we used and (unlike the Optima which is both longer & taller) it is the exact same identical size. Plus you'll save $75 to $100 over the Optima.
Additionally, no matter which battery you choose (with the exception of the $300 Toyota Battery) you'll need to change the terminals because the posts are fatter. We used an Autozone Autocraft marine battery terminal for the positive side (swapping out the butterfly nut for a regular nut) and an Autocraft 4 guage 15 inch battery cable for the negative side. Other than that we used 3/8 clear tubing and a sharkbite 3/8 tee (both from Home Depot) to vent the battery. We then sold the old battery terminals on eBay to cover the cost of the new terminals.

Here is a step by step instruction for a battery swap ~ this guy used the Optima so keep that in mind.
Battery Swap
 

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Best Replacement 12v Prius Battery: Duracell Procell SLI51

Best Replacement 12v Battery: Duracell Procell SLI51

Final Cost:
$98

Available at:
Batteries Plus
This is the battery we used and (unlike the Optima which is both longer & taller) it is the exact same identical size. Plus you'll save $75 to $100 over the Optima.
Additionally, no matter which battery you choose (with the exception of the $300 Toyota Battery) you'll need to change the terminals because the posts are fatter. We used an Autozone Autocraft marine battery terminal for the positive side (swapping out the butterfly nut for a regular nut) and an Autocraft 4 guage 15 inch battery cable for the negative side. Other than that we used 3/8 clear tubing and a sharkbite 3/8 tee (both from Home Depot) to vent the battery. We then sold the old battery terminals on eBay to cover the cost of the new terminals.

Here is a step by step instruction for a battery swap ~ this guy used the Optima so keep that in mind.
Battery Swap
 

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An update. Batteries Plus was not convenient, but AutoZone also has a direct-fit battery, AGM with the vent in the right place and the smaller-than-standard connection posts. $200 but replacement was a snap (and beats the dealership, plus I had a 25%-off coupon so just $150). AutoCraft Platinum AGM 410 CCA, #S46B24R .
 

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I am expert in hybrid car battery
And our team are doing research in this area as well.

Normally, full replacement battery pack cost $1600-$1900 (fresh)
There is a guy from USA, have the replacement battery.
I couldn't find his website ....

But you could check CEBA hybrid car battery in google. You will wide your horizon :-D
 

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Put the substitute batt in a sealable Tupperware type box. Install a plastic tube to vent the nox. Seal it with silicone caulk or similar. Run the tube out bottom of car (sealing exit wound.) Use a maint free batt. Save bucks trading in some trunk space.
 

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Just terminology here I believe. 12 volt battery is charged from the traction battery. However it is reduced from 276 volts to 12 volts via the dc/dc converter. Max charge rate is 3 amps. This is on my 2001 however.

BTW- Wife left the door ajar over night one time and drained the battery so car would not start (instument lights nearly faded out). I left the car set for about 15 min to recoup a bit of charge hopefully, turned the key on, the instrument lights came on dimly at first, the relays in the trunk clicked on and the lights brightened up immediately and the car started up!
This tells me when the relays closed it sent current to the 12 volt battery even before the engine had a chance to start. Good to know.
Paul01,

When I have had to get a jump, it was originally from deep cycling my battery from dvd watching in my Prius v 2013 until recently which is simply forgetting to turn off and unplug everything. Now through all the jumps, it has been the tiniest jump needed just to get it to switch over the rest of the way to cut on my maps screen and put it into “Power” mode. Now there have been times, when I did finally get my car started via what seems like the waiting for it to get recharged enough like you stated.

If only there was a way to cut off gps screen to where we cut it on manually after car in “power” mode and fully operable to drive?!?

Fyi I did do a battery check, and it is dying. My short trips are not helping. And yesterday I finally had the call button on my screen kinda like fade away momentarily. Hence, I am getting ready to break down and get a new battery.

Yes, I would love a more powerful battery and to have the option to where we control how much and when the dc to dc converter works.

No, I am not getting the stealership to install my new battery to be, since they couldn’t even put the price of a new one in writing along with warranty details.

The question I have is what really are the differences between the following batteries:

1. OEM battery
2. AAA’s battery
3. Yellow Optima battery from Car shop


How do they vary in gasoline mileage? I have heard the AAA greatly lowered a regular Prius mpg down to 25. I would find that as an absolutely outrageous insult to happen.


TIA.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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